This DB25 "Quetzalcoatl"* marries watchmaking craft with artful engraving and ancient mythology. Released in 2015, the watch was limited to just 20 pieces. The feathered snake in the centre representing Quetzalcoatl is created from solid gold and hand-engraved by Michèle Rothen, a master engraver based in Le Locle. The snake's head and tail indicate the hours and minutes, shifting position over the course of the day and giving the wearer a different view with each glance.

The watches within the DB25 series are distinguished by their more traditional, understated designs, a significant departure from the futuristic and contemporary style of the pieces in De Bethune’s other collections, such as the DB28. In addition to the understated aesthetics of this series, an array of technical skills is displayed within these watches, from moonphase to perpetual calendar complications.

This DB25 "Quetzalcoatl" marries watchmaking craft with artful engraving and ancient mythology. Released in 2015, the watch was limited to just 20 pieces. The piece is named after Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec version of the 'Feathered Serpent' deity that was a recurring figure throughout Mesoamerican mythology. The name combines two Nahuatl words, 'quetzal' after the bird species, and 'coatl', which means serpent. The deity was widely worshipped, and the subject of numerous myths, iconographic depictions, and was associated with art, crafts, and knowledge.

The feathered snake is coiled in the centre of the dial, as if waiting to strike, and a forked tongue darting outward. The piece is created from solid gold and hand-engraved by Michèle Rothen, a master engraver based in Le Locle. The snake takes the place of the traditional hands, with the head of the snake pointing toward the hours and the tail indicating the minutes. The centrepiece is surrounded by De Bethune's signature microlight finishing, creating concentric circles that give a satisfying depth to the dial. Rather intriguingly, the dynamic head and tail means that the snake shifts position over the course of the day, giving the wearer a different view each time.

The hours are represented through stylised structures inspired by the ruins of the temples in the ancient city of Tenochtitlan, displaying several careful layers of construction. In contrast to the Quetzalcoatl icon, the surrounding hours are brushed and slightly patinated in comparison, encouraging the eye to focus on the centre of the dial, and creating a complex interplay of light. The white gold case provides a muted background for the intricate decorations, and at 44mm in diameter, the watch is a sizeable art piece for the wrist.

The fixed lugs on the case are also made in typical De Bethune style, with a hollowed design, a piece of delicate architecture that emphasises the technical skill involved in the watch’s construction. A patterned crown adds a textured contrast to the smooth and sleek body of the watch. The watch is powered by the DB2005, a movement that is finished to an incredibly high standard and which bears the signature "Côtes de Bethune" finishing, in addition to hand polished and chamfered steel parts throughout. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the movement bears a stylised triangular bridge that calls to mind the Starfleet emblem worn by officers within the Star Trek series.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB25 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB25 is in excellent condition overall. The case and lugs show very light superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the clasp and caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.